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Local food growers illustration

How Green Is Our Valley

Networks of local food growers, restaurants, and farmers' markets promote the joys of regional cuisine: flavor, prosperity, and the family farm.

by Gary Paul Nabhan

One recent Sunday, I ate dinner at a community center on a Navajo reservation in Leupp, Arizona, not far from the Grand Falls of the Little Colorado River. A heavy fog had settled over the Painted Desert, but as we sat down to our meal, the fog lifted, revealing the dusty soil from which the foods we were about to eat had been grown and harvested. We relished a savory posole stew of hominy mixed with Navajo-Churro lamb that had grazed on native herbs and was imbued with the distinctive taste of wild sage. The stew was served with moist, flavorful blue corn bread and a delectable baked Blue Hubbard squash, a local heirloom pumpkin.

The makings of our feast included some of the 700 "heritage foods" traditionally cultivated across the North American continent: foods that, until recently, had nearly vanished. Now many are being put back on the tables of restaurants and banquet halls near where they are grown and are being used to create distinctive regional cuisines. Our Navajo meal was not an isolated event or some exotic, faddish happening. It was part of a concerted effort to conserve regionally adapted seeds and animal breeds and to renew native and immigrant food traditions here and around the country, from the waters of the Louisiana bayous to the maple forests of Vermont's Green Mountains.

In northern Arizona, where I live, a coalition of conservation and agriculture groups called Renewing America's Food Traditions has been funding events like the Navajo banquet for the past two years. Promoting foods that reflect the region's history and environment is part of a larger goal of encouraging sustainable farming, fostering land preservation, and boosting economic vitality.

Regional culinary treasures -- sometimes called place-based foods -- have found their way into high-end restaurants in Santa Fe, Los Angeles, New York, and other cosmopolitan centers. But on that foggy Sunday night at the Navajo reservation, in an area where poverty rates are more than twice the national average (due in part to a crippling seven-year drought), we sat on folding chairs and ate off card tables in a wind-battered community center. If locally grown foods can bring environmental and economic benefits to this struggling region -- and that is happening -- they can do the same for the rest of the country.

In theory, purchasing food from local producers should be simple. It once was. But today's factory farms funnel their products into a global transportation network that carries the food we eat an average distance of 1,200 miles from the field to the supermarket shelf. These days, we're shipping and flying more and more of our food from overseas. In 2002, for the first time in history, the United States -- long considered the breadbasket to the world -- imported more food than it exported. Despite this troubling trend, it is not easy to persuade grocery store managers and restaurant chefs to change their ingrained buying habits.

Canyon Country Fresh, a campaign that I helped launch as director of the Center for Sustainable Environments at Northern Arizona University, was designed to help overcome this resistance. Our staff seeks out ranchers willing to direct-market their meat and connects them with small-scale slaughterhouses, butcher shops, market managers, caterers, and restaurant chefs. We give restaurants incentives to serve local foods by helping them figure out how to get goods delivered from the farm to their door, by educating their customers about the added value of these foods, and by publicizing their efforts (for free) in regional food directories. In Arizona, John Sharpe of the Turquoise Room in Winslow, and Richard Fernandez of Pesto Brothers Piazza in Flagstaff, are among more than a dozen restaurant owners and chefs who have created menus using meats and produce from farms located within a few hundred miles of their establishments. Canyon Country Fresh also organizes community gatherings where chefs speak with farmers about freshness and quality assurance -- the things that keep their restaurant patrons coming back for more.

Local food networks yield numerous environmental benefits. Limiting the distance food travels from producer to consumer significantly reduces transportation costs, fossil fuel consumption, and carbon emissions. Smaller, family-run farms tend to adopt sustainable farming practices more readily than do large operations. I raise Navajo-Churro sheep near Winona, Arizona, where most ranchers graze their animals in summer pastures and feed them supplemental hay in the winter, avoiding the nitrate pollution and antibiotic use associated with feedlots. Much of the grass-fed meat raised in our area is not officially certified as organic under the United States Department of Agriculture's new standards, but producers tell me that their animals are raised without any genetically engineered grains in their feed and without growth hormones. My Navajo neighbors know the history of the Churro breed and its importance to their culture. They know each and every one of their sheep by name.

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Get to Know Your Local Farms

Find out where to buy local, sustainably grown foods through Local Harvest, a nonprofit online resource that connects consumers with more than 7,000 retailers. Search for farmers' markets, grocery stores, food co-ops, restaurants, and farms offering food "subscriptions" (remember the milkman?) in your hometown.

Help revive seeds, breeds, and heritage foods in your own community by connecting with Renewing America's Food Traditions. The organization invites everyone to nominate culturally significant foods from their area -- from apples to shellfish -- for the "Ark of Taste" list of endangered gastronomic treasures.

More Living Green

For other tips on environmentally conscious living from OnEarth magazine, visit the Living Green index page.

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Gary Paul Nabhan is the author of Coming Home to Eat (Norton) and Why Some Like It Hot (Island Press). He was named a MacArthur Fellow in 1990 and recently co-founded Renewing America's Food Traditions.

Illustration: Craig Larotonda

OnEarth. Spring 2005
Copyright 2005 by the Natural Resources Defense Council